Fast and Easy Penis Warmer Free Crochet Pattern

Fast and Easy Crochet Penis Warmer

Video Tutorial for Penis Warmer Pattern Here

Materials: I hook and Worsted Weight Yarn

Abbreviations: MC-Magic Circle or you can also chain 4 and join into a ring      INC-Increase Stitch DEC-Decrease Stitch SC-Single Crochet DC-Double Crochet CH-Chain sts-Stitches

 

Shaft Do not join, worked in continuous rounds

MC, CH 1, do not count as first stitch

Rnd 1: 5 SC into MC (5 sts)

Rnd 2: INC around (10 sts)

Rnd 3: 1 SC, 1 INC (15 sts)

Rnd 4: 2 SC, 1 INC (20 sts)

Rnd 5: Continue at 20 SC until desired shaft length is reached

Ball Sack Do not join, worked in continuous rounds

MC, ch 1, do not count as first stitch

Rnd 1: 6 into MC (6 sts)

Rnd 2: INC around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: 1 SC, 1 SC INC (18 sts)

Rnd 4: 2 SC, 1 INC (24 sts)

Rnd 5: 3 SC, 1 INC (30 sts)

Rnd 6- 10: Complete 4 rows of 30 SC (30 sts)

Rnd 11: Last row Add a decrease in each corner of the sack freehand or follow this pattern for the decrease row DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 6 SC (4 decreases total) (26 sts)

 

Assembly and Drawstring Holes

Attach shaft to balls with 6 stiches or 6 SC

Attach yarn in middle back of sack and complete 3 joined rounds of SC around entire piece. Join your rows with slip stitch and ch 1, do not count as first stitch at beginning of rows (36 sts)

Drawstring Hole Row This row is done in Double Crochet Stitch so you can loop the string throughout the stitches as you please with ease. 

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 36 DC (36 DC)

Finishing row

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 36 SC (36 SC)

Drawstring

Chain desired length for drawstring or fancy pants it and braid several strands of yarn together.

NSFW Pregnant Doll

This pattern uses 3 different hook sizes, the basic rule of thumb is biggest hook for body, medium hook for legs/belly piece and smallest hook for the boobies and arms. 
For a larger doll or beginner use: G hook for the body & D hook for the legs and a #0 steel crochet hook (3.25 to 3.50 mm) hook for arms and small detail.

For a tighter stitched doll use: D, E or #0 hook for body/legs/belly and #0 or #5 steel hook for arms and small details.

The boobies and cord are worked with 2 strand crochet thread or you can take your worsted weight yarn apart to make your own. The pieces can be worked with a D hook, 3.5 mm hook, #0 steel or #5 steel hook. The smaller the hook the smaller the piece will be.

Terms of use for this pattern: Please use and enjoy

Head + Body
G hook for larger doll and D , E or #0 hook for smaller doll.
Pattern is worked from top of head down to body
Do not join, mark beginning of each row
Don’t forget to stuff as you go.

6 SC into MC (6 sts)
6 SC INC (12 sts)
1 SC, SC INC (18 sts)
2 SC, SC INC (24 sts)
3 SC, SC INC (30 sts)
30 SC (30 sts)
30 SC (30 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 4-6 TIMES*
SC DEC, 3 SC (24 sts)
SC DEC, 2 SC (18 sts)
18 SC (18 sts)
SC DEC, 1 SC (12 sts) *Turn inside out and start stuffing*
12 SC (12 sts)
6 SC DEC (6 sts)
6 SC (6 sts) *Neck detail* *REPEAT THIS ROW 1-2 TIMES*
6 SC INC (12 sts)
12 SC (12 sts)
1 SC, SC INC (18 sts)
18 SC (18 sts) *Repeat for 2-3 rows*
1 SC, 1 SC DEC (12 sts) *Start of waist*
9 SC DEC (9 sts)
9 SC INC (18 sts)
18 SC (18 sts) *Repeat about 5 rows*
2 SC, SC DEC (14 sts) *Stuff*
SC DEC, 1 SC (9 sts)
5 SC DEC (5 sts)
Sew closed

Legs
G hook or D hook for larger doll and
Worked in the round from the foot up to the thigh, do not join
Mark beginning of each round, make 2 legs duh

6 SC into MC (6 sts)
3 HDC, 3 SC (6 sts) *this is for toe shapes*
6 SC (6 sts)
6 SC (6 sts)
2 DEC, 2 INC (6 sts) *this is for ankle shape*
6 SC (6 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 10-12 TIMES* pinch in half and notice where ankle is folding then line the next row up on top of that and fudge a few more stitches in if you need to.
3 HDC, 3 SC (6 sts) *this is for knee detail*
4 HDC, 2 SC INC (8 sts) *this is where your thigh starts*
8 SC (8 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 6 TIMES until desired leg length is achieved
Ch 1, reverse direction, go opposite way and 4 SC for hip detail

Arms
D hook, worked in a chain based round from the hand up to the shoulder, do not join. Mark beginning of each round, make 2 arms bro
***You can also start this pattern in the traditional round (6 SC into MC) but I find it easier to start it this way when using a smaller hook because it creates more of an ‘oval’, but do whatever method works best for you and your hands***

Ch 4
3 SC down one side of the starting Ch 4, 3 SC up the other side (6 sts)
6 SC (6 sts)
6 SC (6 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 8-10 TIMES
2 SC INC, 2 SC, 1 HDC, 1 SC (8 sts)
8 SC (8 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 9 times
Turn and work 3 SC in the opposite direction for shoulder detail,
**You might have to fold and bend the arm a little to see where the elbow bends. Then make sure you line the 3 SC shoulder detail up accordingly by adding or removing a stitch or two if necessary.

Boobies
6 SC into MC (6 sts)
6 SC INC (12 sts)
12 SC (12 sts)
Stuff lightly and draw yarn through loops, pull a little tight and leave tail for sewing to body
Sew on pink beads for fancy nips

Belly
Do not join rounds
7 SC into MC (7 sts)
7 SC INC (14 sts)
7 SC INC, [ 1 SC, SC INC *REPEAT FOR REST OF THE ROW*] (24 sts)
24 SC *REPEAT about 6 rows (24 sts)
Turn you work and add an extra half row or two on bottom opposite direction, this will be your larger half of the circle and bottom of belly, draw your yarn tail through the bottom of this row to ast as a baby belly draw string.
Leave a long tail for sewing

Umbilical Cord Chain Stitch
Attach to belly button area and baby
Chain stitch as long as you wish, leave ends for sewing

Fetus
E hook/worsted weight
Do not join rounds

Fetus body
MC or CH 2 start
5 SC (5 sts)
SC INC (10 sts)
10 SC (10 sts)
1 SC, 1 SC DEC (7 sts)
7 SC (7 sts)
1 SC DEC, SC (6 sts)
4 SC, 2 SC INC (8 sts)
8 SC (8 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 4-5 TIMES
3 SC DEC, 2 SC (5 sts)
1 DEc, 1 SC, TIE OFF

Fetus arms
Ch 6
5 SC
Fetus Legs
CH 9
8 SC

Pattern questions or help, requests, errors, finished objects, and like minded individuals looking to collaborate artistic efforts, contact me: thehobohooker@gmail.com

NSFW Man Doll Mr. Harry Richard

Working on a photo tutorial of this pattern here: https://hobohooker.wordpress.com/2017/03/19/person-pattern-free-beginner-series

F2Sm6Iw   Meet Harry Richard…

Some say he lives a sad lonely life jerking it to internet porn all day long,

some say he is living the dream.

Terms of use for this pattern: Please use and enjoy!
Harry Richard

Materials Used

G hook and D hook or #5 steel crochet hook

Scrap yarn (DK/worsted weight)

You will also need a small amount of your yarn broken down into 2 ply yarn or crochet thread, for the small details  
US terms

Ch – chain

MC – magic circle or double adjustable magic circle

SC – single crochet

SC DEC/INC – single crochet decrease/increase

Sl st – slip stitch

sts/( X sts)- stitches (total number of stitches in row or round)

Head + Body

G hook or 3.5 mm hook, worked from top of head down to body

Do not join, mark beginning of each row

Don’t forget to stuff as you go.

MC

6 SC  (6 sts)

6 SC INC (12 sts)

1 SC, SC INC (18 sts)

2 SC, SC INC (24 sts)

3 SC, SC INC (30 sts) (with 3.5mm hook piece now measures 2 inches)

30 SC (30 sts)

30 SC (30 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 4-6 TIMES* (with 3.5 mm hook radius now measures 2 inch outside, 1 1/2 inch inside)

SC DEC, 3 SC (24 sts)

SC DEC, 2 SC (18 sts)

SC DEC, 1 SC (12 sts)  *Turn inside out and start stuffing*

6 SC DEC (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts) *Neck detail* *REPEAT THIS ROW 1-2 TIMES*

6 SC INC (12 sts)

1 SC, SC INC (18 sts)

18 SC (18 sts) *Repeat for 9 rows*

2 SC, SC DEC (14 sts)  *Stuff*

1 SC, SC DEC ( 10 sts)

5 SC DEC (5 sts)

Sew closed

Legs

G hook, Worked in the round from the foot up to the thigh, do not join

Mark beginning of each round, make 2 legs duh

6 SC into MC (6 sts)

3 HDC, 3 SC (6 sts)  *this is for toe shapes*

6 SC (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts)

2 DEC, 2 INC (6 sts)   *this is for ankle shape*

6 SC (6 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 10-12 TIMES* or until piece measures 2.5 inches from ankle detail* pinch in half and notice where ankle is folding then line the next row up on top of that and fudge a few more stitches in if you need to. 

3 HDC, 3 SC (6 sts) *this is for knee detail*

4 HDC, 2 SC INC (8 sts) *this is where your thigh starts*

8 SC (8 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 6 TIMES until desired leg length is achieved

Ch 1, reverse direction, go opposite way and 4 SC for hip detail

Arms

Steel #5 hook or D hook, worked in a chain based round from the hand up to the shoulder, do not join. Mark beginning of each round, make 2

***You can also start this pattern in the traditional round (6 SC into MC) but I find it easier to start it this way when using a smaller hook because it creates more of an ‘oval’, but do whatever method works best for you and your hands***

Ch 4

3 SC down one side of the starting Ch 4, 3 SC up the other side (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 9-10 TIMES or with G hook about 1 1/2 to 2 inches long

2 SC INC, 2 SC, 1 HDC, 1 SC (8 sts)

8 SC (8 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 9-10 times or with G hook about 1 1/2 to 2 inches long measured from elbow bend

Turn and work 3 SC in the opposite direction for shoulder detail,

     Tip: You might have to fold and bend the arm a little to see where the elbow bends. Then make sure you line the 3 SC shoulder detail up accordingly by adding or removing a stitch or two if necessary.

EXTRAS FOR HARRY

Cock and Balls

Note: These little details and such were worked with scrap pieces of yarn and other ‘spare parts’ I have lying around. I freehand most of them and would encourage you to try it too. They are tiny silly pieces of art, so while I try to write down the patterns you might have to fudge the numbers to make your piece work for you and your hands.

Steel #5 hook, deconstruct yarn into 2 ply by unraveling it apart

Worked in 3 pieces; head, shaft, sack

Head

Do not join

10 SC into MC (10 sts)

10 SC INC (20 sts)

20 SC (20 sts)

20 SC (20 sts)

Weave tail in between last row of stitches to pull tight/gather onto shaft during assembly

Shaft

#5 steel hook, Ch 1 turn at end of each row

Ch 13

12 SC (12sts) REPEAT THIS ROW for 4 or 5 rows

Sew together like a tube to form a shaft

Sack

Do not join, G hook

6 sc into MC

Switch to #5 steel hook 6 sc (6 sts)

SC inc, SC inc, 4 SC (8 sts)

8 SC (8 sts)

Assembly

Sew legs and arms on first. Attach sack to body. Thread shaft through tiny head and pull tight where the gather, like a little mushroom. Attach mushroom to body appropriately above shaft.

Tits

#5 steel

12 SC into MC (12 sts)

12 SC INC (24 sts)

24 SC (24 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW until desired boob shape is achieved*

Top Hat

10 SC into MC (10 sts)

10 SC INC (20 sts)

20 SC (20 sts)

20 Back Loop Only SC (20 sts)

Work in several unjoined rounds, decrease every 4 stitches as you go

When you have reached desired top hat length, work 2 SC INC in every stitch for brim

One more row of SC for brim

Crochet Person Pattern (Free Beginner Series)

I’m also making this into a video pattern on The Tube too geared towards beginners learning to crochet.

Terms of use for this pattern: Please use and enjoy.

Head + Body

G hook, worked from top of head down to body

Do not join, mark beginning of each row

Don’t forget to stuff as you go.

MC

6 SC  (6 sts)

6 SC INC (12 sts)

1 SC, SC INC (18 sts)

2 SC, SC INC (24 sts)

3 SC, SC INC (30 sts)

30 SC (30 sts)

30 SC (30 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 4-5 TIMES*

SC DEC, 3 SC (24 sts)

SC DEC, 2 SC (18 sts)

SC DEC, 1 SC (12 sts)  *Turn inside out and start stuffing*

6 SC DEC (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts) *Neck detail*

6 SC (6 sts)

6 SC INC (12 sts)

1 SC, SC INC (18 sts)

18 SC (18 sts) *Repeat for 9 rows*

2 SC, SC DEC (14 sts)  *Stuff*

1 SC, SC DEC ( 10 sts)

5 SC DEC (5 sts)

Sew closed

Arms

D hook, worked in a chain based round from the hand up to the shoulder, do not join. Mark beginning of each round, make 2

***You can also start this pattern in the traditional round (6 SC into MC) but I find it easier to start it this way when using a smaller hook because it creates more of an ‘oval’, but do whatever method works best for you and your hands***

 

Ch 4

3 SC down one side of the starting Ch 4, 3 SC up the other side (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts)

6 SC (6 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 10 TIMES or until piece is about 2 inches long

2 SC INC, 2 SC, 1 HDC, 1 SC (8 sts)

8 SC (8 sts) *REPEAT THIS ROW 9 times or about 1 ½ inch long measured from elbow bend

Turn and work 3 SC in the opposite direction for shoulder detail,

     Tip: You might have to fold and bend the arm a little to see where the elbow bends. Then make sure you line the 3 SC shoulder detail up accordingly by adding or removing a stitch or two if necessary.

 

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Head, right side
Head, wrong side
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Head before turning inside out

 

Head after turning inside out
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Head before turning inside out
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Head after turning inside out

 

 

Stuffa der head
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Stuffed head
Neck detail, about to work on shoulders

 

 

 

 

*optional, pinch piece in half and think about where the shoulders are going to be, think that your shoulder detail will be 2 SC INC stitches wide for each side. Then for that set of sts work (SC INC utilizing your first front loop for the first stitch of the increase front loop for first SC, natural sc for second)

 

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after body is worked not stitched shut
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draw remaining loops together on needle and pull through body coming out mid chest
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Nice b-hole

 

 

Arm

 

Chain 4

 

3 SC up the other side (Oval Start)

***You can also start this pattern in the traditional round (6 SC into MC) but I find it easier to start it this way when using a smaller hook because it creates more of an ‘oval’, but do whatever method works best for you and your hands***

 

 

work arm until it measures the other one, you can count rows but i like to just eyeball things sometimes. do what works for you
after elbow detail row

Free Penis Warmer Crochet Pattern

Someone on the reddit asked for a video tutorial for a penis warmer and gave me a link to this pattern.

Video tutorial for this pattern on the tube  https://youtu.be/D0D8cVHkf0k

I’m calling this series “The Joy of Manhood”Or “Members Only” OR “I NEED A LIFE”

Original pattern is © copyright By Debra Matz

Original pattern source http://hearthwench.tripod.com/cwillie-print.html

Original pattern construction: http://hearthwench.tripod.com/cwwconst-print.html http://hearthwench.tripod.com/cwwconst2.html

My Modified Willie Warmer Pattern

Worsted weight yarn
G hook for Average Joe (small) size and H hook for Beer Can Bill (Large size)

Sack (Make 2) H hook for x-large sack (handbag size) G hook for average joe
Ch 25
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook & across. Turn (24 sc)
Rows 2-20: ch 1, sc across. (24 sc)
Leave long tail for sewing. Weave yarn tail into single crochet stitches & draw up tight.

Sew together the 2 sack halves of the sack along the outer edges (turning edges). **mine left a hole in bottom, so i stitched that shut too, i want to try a version like this but these pieces are slightly rounded instead of rectangular**

Main Bit (Beer Can) H hook*Note: Don’t join rounds; mark the beginning of each round.
Rnd 1: ch 4; join into a ring. Make 8 sc in ring. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16 sc)
Rnd 3: * 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 4: work even around.
Rnd 5: * 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, * around (32 sc)
Rnds 6-36: work even around, bind off with sl st and leaving a tail for sewing.

Main Bit (Average Joe) G hook*Note: Don’t join rounds; mark the beginning of each round.
Rnd 1: ch 4; join into a ring. Make 8 sc in ring. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16 sc)
Rnd 3: * 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 4: work even around.
Rnds 5-36: work even around, bind off with sl st and leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembly 

Attach the Main Bit, centering over one of the seams, sewing 9 sts of the Main Bit (1 st to the dividing seam) of the sack.
Attach yarn with a sl st to the back of the sack’s center seam. Sc around, making 1 sc where the Main Bit & sack joins on each side.

Do 4 more rounds of sc, marking the beginning of each round. Join with a sl st to the beginning of the round.

Then:
Ch 4, sk 2 st, * 1 dc, ch 1 in the next st, sk the next st, * around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch 4. Weave in all ends.

Ties 
Short-Cinch Tie: Make a chain 18 inches long, sc back on the chain. Weave tie around the double crochet spaces from the middle of the back of the sack to the middle front of the Main Bit.

Long Tie (to go around the hips): Make a chain of 200. Sc back on the chain. Weave the same way as the Short-Cinch Tie.

Man Thong Mod
NOTE! Please read! If the guy really wants to wear one, do the following:
Make 2 of the long ties, but one with 300 sts (groan). With a yarn needle, weave the tie through the bottom of the sack in the back part that would be next to the body, then from the middle of the sack to the other side with one half of the tie & do the same with the other half, but in the opposite direction. This will give “legs”, like a jock strap. Then take the shorter of the two ties & weave it from the sack half, through the front part & to the other side of the sack. Both ties then will go around the middle the waist & be tied.

 

 

Original:

Willie Warmer #1 – Crocheted Version

Worsted weight yarn
G hook

Sack – make 2 “halves”
ch 25.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook & across. Turn. 24 sc.
Rows 2-20: ch 1, sc across. Turn.
Leave a tail 14 inches long for sewing. Weave yarn tail in sc sts. & draw up tight.
Make second half.

Main “Bit”
Rnd 1: ch 4; join into a ring. Make 8 sc in ring.
*Note: Don’t join rounds; mark the beginning of each round.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. 16 sc.
Rnd 3: * 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, * around. 24 sc.
Rnd 4: work even around.
Rnd 5: * 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, * around. 32 sc.
Rnds 6-36: work even around. After the 36th round, sl st into the first sc of the rnd & end off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Finishing
Sew together the 2 sack halves of the sack along the outer edges (turning edges). Attach the Main Bit, centering over one of the seams, sewing 9 sts of the Main Bit (1 st to the dividing seam) of the sack.
Attach yarn with a sl st to the back of the sack’s center seam. Sc around, making 1 sc where the Main Bit & sack joins on each side. Do 4 more rounds of sc, marking the beginning of each round. Join with a sl st to the beginning of the round. Then:
Ch 4, sk 2 st, * 1 dc, ch 1 in the next st, sk the next st, * around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch 4. Weave in all ends.

Ties
Short-Cinch Tie: Make a chain 18 inches long, sc back on the chain. Weave tie around the double crochet spaces from the middle of the back of the sack to the middle front of the Main Bit.

Long Tie (to go around the hips): Make a chain of 200. Sc back on the chain. Weave the same way as the Short-Cinch Tie.

NOTE! Please read! If the guy really wants to wear one, do the following:
Make 2 of the long ties, but one with 300 sts (groan). With a yarn needle, weave the tie through the bottom of the sack in the back part that would be next to the body, then from the middle of the sack to the other side with one half of the tie & do the same with the other half, but in the opposite direction. This will give “legs”, like a jock strap. Then take the shorter of the two ties & weave it from the sack half, through the front part & to the other side of the sack. Both ties then will go around the middle the waist & be tied.
Decorate as desired!

© copyright By Debra Matz

Permission is granted to copy this pattern, as long as my name & copyright is on the pattern.

 

 

ROUGH DRAFT

10 SC (11 ch) start triangles with 3 SC Inc at top center. Two triangles are joined by rows of SC. First few joining rows Increase pattern is continued and center of piece is gradually decreased. At this point the piece is ready to be worked in normal back and forth single crochet rows..

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Maybe like this. Depends on the back piece.

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